Markets, Traditional Dwellings, and Specimen Jars: An Afternoon in Daxu, Guangxi Province

Do you love experiencing ancient culture, crave the blissful peace of a small town, or love seeing the quirks of different societies? Daxu Ancient Town makes for a great half-day trip for any traveler keen on witnessing traditional Chinese lifestyle first hand.

Where is it?

Located just 40 minutes southeast from the city of Guilin, Daxu is one of four ancient towns in the Guangxi Province of China. The name ‘Daxu’ means “big market” in Chinese, epitomising the very nature of the town, which was founded at the beginning of the Song dynasty (960-1126). There are now two parts to Daxu: the old town and the more contemporary side that surrounds the area, providing a jarring juxtaposition of old and new.

What will you find?

As you arrive in the town, the sights and smells from the multitudes of the market stalls give a warm welcome. The town is well known for its traditional handicraft and you’ll see a range of vendors selling all sorts of goods, such as: rice wine, which gives off quite the potent odour; bamboo fishing baskets; straw slippers, which look painfully uncomfortable to wear; jars of fresh homemade chilli; ancient Chinese furnishings, and more. The locals here are curious yet welcoming of any unfamiliar faces, always keen to ask questions about who you are and where you’re from, and witnessing them go about their day-to-day lives in this little town is enthralling to watch because of how traditional their lifestyles are.

The glossy blue flagstones of The Old Street give the town that rustic look, worn away over the years because of carts, shoes, and the weather. This is the main street, cutting through the centre of the town and stretching to a modest 2.5 kilometres. It is adorned with beautiful and conventional Chinese architecture – although the vast majority of these have become decrepit through lack of upkeep or renovation – and narrow passageways that lead down to the nearby riverbank and its 13 docks. Burrow further away from the main market street to walk through alleyways lined with different dwellings. Each home, identified by number and family name, features lanterns, red banners of prosperity, and mirrors on top of the doors to protect the family homes from evil spirits. With worn paint, broken window panes, and rotting wooden walls and doors these homes look practically derelict, yet they still retain their charm.

There are a few other sights in Daxu which can be considered “must-see” locations; first of which is The Longevity Temple, an elaborate building featuring two huge pillars with dragons coiling around their surface. Though the building may be old and worn, with stone reliefs and inscriptions crumbling away, it still remains a sight to behold as it oozes character and tradition. Second is the local Chinese pharmacy; a wonderful, eye-opening experience into the history of Chinese medicine that is certainly not for those with a queasy disposition. It is a dark and dingy establishment and as you step past the threshold you’ll be greeted by a number of specimen jars holding everything from snakes and insects to lizards; tortoise shells strung from shelves, and a number of unidentifiable bottles that will leave you curious beyond belief – make a purchase if you dare. Last, but not least, cross the 600-year old, arched, Longevity Bridge to appreciate the beauty of the Li River that lies to the west of the ancient town.

If you go be sure to arrive early to experience the beautiful tranquility that contrasts life in the city. The afternoons often bring groups of visitors who come to browse the market stalls, and with those visitors comes a lot of noise…

Admission: free

Opening hours: 24 hours

How to get there: Public buses no. 16, 32, 54, 6 or shuttle bus from Guilin Bus Terminal. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes.